Sending greetings from the Philippines! One day I stumbled upon several climbers using an ascender for belaying, and I was shocked. They got the best of my advice because I was afraid of a catastrophe. — Email from Pastor Noel
LESSON: I can actually kind of see the logic behind these guys. The ascender will glide smoothly up the rope when the belayer takes in slack. If the climber falls, the ascender will lock up. (I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt and assuming that the ascender is clipped to the belayer’s harness.) Unfortunately, ascenders are highly specialized devices. They are designed to do one thing: ascend ropes.
Ascenders grip the rope with rows of metal teeth. Google image search “ascender teeth” for a visual. These work great under bodyweight loads. With higher loads, such as those generated in a fall, these teeth can shred a rope to bits. Also, feeding a rope through an ascender requires that you hold the cam open. If the leader were to fall when the cam was held open … you get the idea.
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Beyond any safety issues, most ascenders cost around $80. The two most popular tube-style belay devices both retail for around $30. A Munter hitch is free. Not only is it safer to belay properly; it’s cheaper. In short, using an ascender instead of a proper belay device is dangerous and more expensive than actually using a device. The climbers you saw probably didn’t realize the risk they were taking. Next time, if you see this situation again, you may want to intervene and show them how to belay with a device.
LESSON: I can actually kind of see the logic behind these guys. The ascender will glide smoothly up the rope when the belayer takes in slack. If the climber falls, the ascender will lock up. (I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt and assuming that the ascender is clipped to the belayer’s harness.) Unfortunately, ascenders are highly specialized devices.
They are designed to do one thing: ascend ropes. Ascenders grip the rope with rows of metal teeth. Google image search “ascender teeth” for a visual. These work great under bodyweight loads.
With higher loads, such as those generated in a fall, these teeth can shred a rope to bits. Also, feeding a rope through an ascender requires that you hold the cam open. If the leader were to fall when the cam was held open … you get the idea.
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Beyond any safety issues, most ascenders cost around $80. The two most popular tube-style belay devices both retail for around $30. A Munter hitch is free. Not only is it safer to belay properly; it’s cheaper. In short, using an ascender instead of a proper belay device is dangerous and more expensive than actually using a device.
The climbers you saw probably didn’t realize the risk they were taking. Next time, if you see this situation again, you may want to intervene and show them how to belay with a device.
LESSON: I can actually kind of see the logic behind these guys. The ascender will glide smoothly up the rope when the belayer takes in slack. If the climber falls, the ascender will lock up. (I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt and assuming that the ascender is clipped to the belayer’s harness.) Unfortunately, ascenders are highly specialized devices. They are designed to do one thing: ascend ropes.
Ascenders grip the rope with rows of metal teeth. Google image search “ascender teeth” for a visual. These work great under bodyweight loads. With higher loads, such as those generated in a fall, these teeth can shred a rope to bits. Also, feeding a rope through an ascender requires that you hold the cam open. If the leader were to fall when the cam was held open … you get the idea.
Beyond any safety issues, most ascenders cost around $80. The two most popular tube-style belay devices both retail for around $30. A Munter hitch is free. Not only is it safer to belay properly; it’s cheaper. In short, using an ascender instead of a proper belay device is dangerous and more expensive than actually using a device.
The climbers you saw probably didn’t realize the risk they were taking. Next time, if you see this situation again, you may want to intervene and show them how to belay with a device.
can see where they’re coming from, at least partially. When the belayer takes in slack, the ascensionist can climb the rope easily. The ascender will lock in place in the event of a fall. (Giving them the benefit of the doubt, I’ll assume the ascender is attached to the belayer’s harness.) Ascenders, alas, are extremely niche tools.
One specific purpose for which they were created is to climb ropes. Climbers’ metal teeth are arranged in rows to provide a secure hold on the rope. If you need a visual, just type “ascender teeth” into Google’s image search. These perform admirably even when subjected to only one’s own weight.
These teeth can completely rip a rope to shreds under greater stresses, such as those induced by a fall. Holding the cam open is also necessary when passing a rope through an ascender. You get the picture: if the leader were to fall while the cam was open, things wouldn’t end well.
Aside from security concerns, the typical price of an ascender is roughly $80. Both of the best-selling tube belay devices in the world are under $30. A hitch on a Munter costs nothing. Correct belaying is not only more cost-effective but also safer. Using an ascender instead of a belay device increases the risk of injury and costs more money.
The climbers you observed probably weren’t thinking well. If you see a similar circumstance in the future, you might wish to step in and demonstrate the proper belay technique using a gadget.
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